The Departure
The sleeping man in front of me catches himself in time before falling out of the chair as the transfer van careens around another sharp corner at an alarming speed. The passenger on my left has long legs and the close quarters make for awkward moments where our legs are practically draped over one another. It’s a five-hour journey north through the winding roads of the jungle landscape to El Nido. The van is at capacity, 11 passengers plus a trunk space boasting a mountain of luggage. Determined to sleep along the way, the passenger’s heads bob to and fro like yo-yos on a string. The driver entertains the blonde foreign girls sharing the front seat as he glances at the road occasionally to keep his barring.
Van transfer is the most common means of transport from Puerto Princessa to the island hopping favorite. Hailing some popular beaches and a handful of protected islands off the coast, El Nido is a tourist haven of water-based activities. I watch the terrain as we push forward towards our destination. Rivers, bamboo forests, single-room wooden homes on stilts, cottages nestled between towering banana trees and children far too young to be operating motorbikes. A solo window seat providing an advantage point of sporadic, but panoramic views of the Sulu Sea. The monochromatic color scheme of blue that creates the sea surrounding this island nation has been unlike any of I’ve ever seen – and I’ve seen plenty of bodies of water around the globe. The van hits a speed bump jarring the sleeping to wake and adjust themselves in their seats. I cross my legs, using my knee and foot to wedge myself against the back edge of the sliding door and the seat in front of me.
At the rest stop, the driver puffs his vaporizer and checks in with each passenger to verify hotel drop off points. The end of his trek is the first bus terminal off the main road, about 3km outside of the center of town. After discovering that most everyone is staying in town, he announces the aforementioned stopping point to each of us. He continues, in broken English, to explain the road is unpaved this second leg of the journey and therefore riddled with bumps. The passengers all nod in unison, understanding the story that lives in the gaps between the missing words. We share a few glances in solidarity understanding that this ride should continue to be interesting.
The Return
The bus terminal is chaotic. The locals operating this outfit understand what’s what and who’s who, but the process is the definition of chaotic. I watch these young drivers maneuver these heavy vehicles within the confines of this impossibly small space. Multi-tasking, the drivers continue attempts to secure last-minute passengers. I’ve made a reservation, but it’s obvious now that having one isn’t entirely necessary. Tourists arrive on tricycles (a motorbike with a sidecar to resemble that of a tuk-tuk) or piled on the back of motorbikes. Patrons harass each other as they arrive inquiring on final destinations and shouting out prices. I present my ticket and am told to wait until the van company my reservation is linked to has arrived. I’m relieved to remove my pack for a while, I walked to this station from my accommodations about a kilometer down the road. It’s hot and I’m sleepy, so I am happy to take a load off as a sit down in the 60s style plastic chair to wait.
Adolescences do what they do and display juvenile bravado, attempting to get my attention with whistles and cat calls. I don’t ignore them, instead, turn my head and lock eyes with them with a raised eyebrow in a challenging stare down. Intimidated (or entertained, I’m not sure which) they guffaw and relent, leaving me in peace. A young man approaches me quickly calling the agencies name and pointing at my pack. He grabs it, hoisting it over his shoulder like a nap sack full of rice. Securely in the vehicle (along with five other bodies) we wait. The van is not likely to leave until it’s full, but I’m grateful for the air conditioning. I’ve chosen the front seat, which will grant me more legroom than any other seat in the vehicle. This also positions me in the direct stream of the airconditioning. I exhale sharply and lean my tired head against the window as tropical raindrops begin to collide with the windshield.
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10 Responses
One of these days I’m going to travel the world and see all these beautiful places. I’m putting it in the atmosphere!
Speak it into existence!
What an experience!! Meredith, I am with you! I will do whatever is necessary to get my full experience while I’m traveling!
Adventure=experience 🙋🏾♀️
This place looks like heaven! Our ancestors come from the most beautiful places on earth. Ase.
The landscape will take your breath away!
Looks like a fun adventure.
Was indeed! Thanks for reading.
I love the photos. This looks beautiful. Also,you’re a great writer.
Thanks so much!