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The Early Days; Solo in Bali (Ubud) Vol. 3

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I’ve been traveling solo in Bali for almost a week now, and I’ve yet to adapt to this physical and headspace. Neck-deep in a lukewarm bath watching a frog jump repeatedly against a pebblestone wall too high to ever clear. This Balinese-style bathroom successfully bridges the gap between humans, insects, and reptiles. Having arrived at this magical city yesterday, I vacillate on the level of laziness I’ll achieve today after succumbing to heat stroke-like symptoms the day before. 

I misjudged the distance from my Airbnb to the nearby Monkey Forest. It was 3 miles (one way), but I also mistimed my exit and attempted this adventure (without water) at the hottest time of the day. I’m soaking in this bath, now, in an attempt to externally replenish the water I’d sweat out in buckets 24 hours prior. 

Traveling Solo in Bali: The Emotional Side of Things

Having reached my limit with the reptiles that called themselves men on the various dating apps I’ve been using (in hopes of meeting someone to explore this area with – among other things) and have settled for Ben. That’s what I decided to name the helpless frog currently sharing this outdoor space with me. 

This trip has been all I wanted for so long. Now that I am here, though, all I can see is how alone I am. Loneliness, as an emotion, continually seeks to drown me with an assist from sorrow. Many of my childhood friends are married and producing their third and fourth children. I watch their lives unfold through Facebook, liking each photograph as if it makes up for the emotions that weigh me down daily. 

Will I be alone forever? Where is this “Prince Charming” that everyone keeps insisting I’ll meet? Why do I always have to “find” him anyway?

These are just a few of the questions on rotation in my head in the silence of the night.

Qatar Airways
The outdoor bathroom I experienced while sol in Bali.
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
This way to the Monkey Forest in Ubud.
The Monkey Forest is a must when visiting Ubud.
Monkeying around while solo in Bali.
Monkeying around solo at the Monkey Forest in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia (2014)

Experiencing Bali Solo

The wooden staircase to this level of the bungalow is steep; I’m forced to monkey-climb them in both directions. But it’s my personal Balinese utopia once I’m up here. Elephant decor lines the walls, some of which have been hand-painted portraying a scene from God knows what piece of Hindu history. Islam is the primary faith of the country, but Bali is a hub for those who practice the Hindu faith. It’s evident in the food, the language, the physical appearance of locals, and in the decor; everything is enriched, and more colorful.

The air in this country mostly smells of smoke and exhaust, it nauseates me and I hold my breath often or breathe from my mouth when outdoors. The streets are all lined with Penjor, bamboo ornaments meant to mimic the appearance of the mountains of the island, draping over the roadway. I watch from my window as motorbikes overstuffed with people carrying freshly stripped, lengthy bamboo shoots maneuver past cars at terrifying speeds. The flaccid shoots tucked securely under the arm of two passengers bob up and down like a buoy on a disturbed sea surface as the bike navigates the uneven ground.

This culture has been delightful to observe over the last handful of days. Nothing like thought it might be and nothing short of memorable. I begin to ponder what I thought I would feel being here… Peace? Adventure? Far away?

Balinese culture is beautiful.
The whole town is busy preparing for the upcoming holiday
When in Bali!
Penjor is a decorative pole made from bamboo placed on the mountain view side of properties to celebrate Galungan.
Prayer ceremonies discovered while traveling solo in Bali.
Morning prayers take place at temples within compounds all over the city.

Lonely Nights Solo in Bali

I watch the sunset over the horizon from my bedroom window from the confines of my queen-sized bed. The mosquito net acts as a barrier to me and anything with wings in this wooden paradise. Shadows undulate as the darkness invades the room casting a sullen vibe on my headspace as it does. 

My mind wanders toward painful topics…The emptiness in the space serves as a conduit for familiar anxieties. I recall the previous evening when I found myself in a bar, alone and in tears. My consistent travel companion and adventure enthusiast, my mother, is profoundly missed on this solo exploration. 

So much so that I’ve spent far too much money on goodies to tote back across the globe just for her. As deeply as I wanted her here with me, this trip was important to complete on my own and graciously she understood that.

I’ve been searching desperately for something to enchant me here in Bali. All of the amazing stories of enlightenment, lush greenery, and smiling faces I read before coming have only proven to be half-truths. It takes constant effort to remind myself that my experience is mine and therefore shouldn’t seek to resemble anyone else’s. 

I am lost in this thought until I’m distracted by a pair of fireflies dancing in the corner of the room, just inside the open window. Tiny beads of light beaming through the blackness of night. I watch them as they appear and disappear, reappearing in different parts of the room as their butts blink on and off. The magic of this moment finds me immediately and I grin in the darkness. 

This experience is mine, I think to myself, and no one else’s. 

Don’t miss volumes one and two of the story or the beginning of my adventures in Indonesia on a solo private day tour. More adventures abound on the blog!

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6 Responses

  1. I liked the authenticity in this post. Bali has lots of natural beauty and significant challenges as well. I hope you find something that significantly enchants you soon.

  2. I want to travel too but from everything you described, I don’t think solo travel is for me. I would spend money I don’t have, crying because I am all by myself. That probably shouldn’t be a deterrent from seeing more of the world, but it is.

    1. I completely understand that AND relate because it was exactly that my first time!! But I’m too glad that I did it. It prepared me for what came next🙏🏽

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As a global citizen with more than 57 passport stamps, my adventure mandatory, serial-expat existence offers intuitive insight into globetrotting as a solo Black, female.

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